mortgage mistakes
houston home loan.
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Home buying
- your home finance.
If you're like most people, buying a home is the biggest investment you'll ever make.
Annual mortgage, taxes and insurance costs can range from 25% to 40% of your gross annual
income. By visiting this reference page, you're on your way to protecting yourself, and
making the home-buying process easier by becoming an informed consumer.
Buying a home
- Looking for a home without being
pre-approved.
Pre-approval
and pre-qualification are two different things. During the pre-qualification
process, a loan officer asks you a few questions, then hands you a "pre-qual"
letter. The pre-approval process is much more thorough.
During the pre-approval process, the mortgage company does
virtually all the work associated with obtaining full-approval. Since there is no
property yet identified to purchase, however, an appraisal and title search aren't
conducted.
When you're pre-approved, you have much more negotiating clout
with the seller. The seller knows you can close the transaction because a lender has
carefully reviewed your income, assets, credit and other relevant information. In
some cases (multiple offers, for example), being pre-approved can make the difference
between buying and not buying a home. Also, you can save thousands of dollars as a
result of being in a better negotiating situation.
Most good Realtors will not show you homes until you are
pre-approved. They don't want to waste your, their, or the seller's time.
Many mortgage companies will help you become pre-approved at
little or no cost. They'll usually need to check your credit and verify your income
and assets.
- Making verbal (oral) agreements!
If an
agent tries to make you sign a written document that is contrary to their verbal
commitments, don't do it! For example, if the agent says the washer will come with
the home, but the contract says it will not--the written contract will override the verbal
contract. In fact, written contracts almost always override verbal contracts.
When buying or selling real estate, abide by this maxim: Get it in writing!
- Choosing a lender because they have the
lowest rate. Not getting a written good-faith estimate.
While
rate is important, you have to consider the overall cost of your loan. Pay close attention
to the APR, loan fees, discount and origination points. Some lenders include
discount and origination points in their quoted points. Other lenders may only quote
discount points, when in fact there is an additional origination point (or fraction of a
point).
This difference in the way points are sometime quoted is important
to you. One lender will quote all points, while another lender may disclose an extra
point, or fraction thereof, at a later time--an unwelcome surprise.
Within 3 working days after receipt of your completed loan
application, your mortgage company is required to provide you with a written good-faith
estimate of closing costs. You may want to consider requesting a GFE from a few
lenders before submitting your application. With a few GFEs to compare, you can get a feel
for which lenders are more thorough, and you can educate youself regarding the costs
associated with your transaction. The GFE with the highest costs may not indicate
that a particular lender is more expensive than another--in fact, they may be more
diligent in itemizing all fees.
The cost of the mortgage, however, shouldn't be your only
criteria. You should feel comfortable that the loan officer you are dealing with is
committed to your best interests and will deliver what they promise.
- Choosing a lender because they are
recommended by your Realtor.
Your Realtor is not a financial expert. He or she may not
know which loan is best for you. Your Realtor gets a commission only when your transaction
closes. As a result, the Realtor may refer you to a lender who will close your loan, but who may not
have the best rates or fees. Also, many Realtors refer you to one of their friends
in the loan business--who also may not have the best rates or fees. Although most Realtors
are professional and concerned about your best interests, you should do your own homework.
We recommend asking for a loan with someone of your choice before you sign a real
estate sales contract. There are countless stories of consumers who ended up paying
higher rates, or got a loan that wasn't right for them, because they blindly followed
their Realtor's advice.
- Not getting a rate
lock in writing.
When a mortgage company tells you they have locked your rate, get a
written statement detailing the interest rate, the length of the rate lock, and other
particulars about the program.
- Using a dual agent an agent who
represents the buyer and seller in the same transaction.
Buyers
and sellers have opposing interests. Sellers want to receive the highest price,
buyers want to pay the lowest price. In most situations, dual agents cannot be fair
to both buyer and seller. Since the seller usually pays the commission, the dual
agent may negotiate harder for the seller than for the buyer. If you are a buyer, it
is usually better to have your own agent represent you.
The only time you should consider using a dual agent, is when you
can get a price break (usually resulting from the dual agent lowering their commission).
- Buying a home without professional
inspections. Taking the seller's word that repairs have been made.
Unless
you're buying a new home with warranties on most equipment, it is highly recommended that
you get property, roof and termite inspections. These reports will give you a better
picture of what you're buying. Inspection reports are great negotiating tools when
it comes to asking the seller to make repairs. If a professional home inspector
states that certain repairs need to be made, the seller is more likely to agree to making
them.
If the seller agrees to make repairs, have your inspector verify
the completed work prior to close of escrow. Do not assume that everything will be
done as promised.
- Not shopping for home insurance until
you are ready to close.
Start
shopping for insurance as soon as you have an accepted offer. Many buyers wait until
the last minute to get insurance and find they have no time left to shop around.
- Signing documents without reading them.
Do
not sign documents in a hurry. As soon as possible, review the documents you'll be
signing at close of escrow--including a copy of all loan documents. This way, you
can review them and get your questions answered in a timely manner. Do not expect to
read all the documents during the closing. There is rarely enough time to do that.
- Making moving plans that don't work.
You
expect to move out of your current residence on Friday and into your new residence over
the weekend. Also on Friday, your lease terminates and the movers are scheduled to
appear.
Friday morning arrives: bags packed, boxes stacked, children under
arm and the dog on a leash; you're sitting on your front door stoop awaiting the arrival
of the movers. Your phone rings. Your loan closing is delayed until the following Tuesday.
The new tenants turn into your driveway with a weighted-down U-Haul and the movers
pull up across the street.
You ask yourself, "Where's the nearest Motel 6 and storage
facility? How much will the movers charge for an extra trip? Can we afford
it?"
How can you avoid such a disaster? Cancel your lease and ask
the movers to show up five to seven days after you anticipate closing your transaction.
Consider the extra expense an insurance policy. You're buying peace of
mind--and protecting yourself from expensive delays.
Refinancing your
home
- Refinancing with your current lender
without shopping around.
Your
current lender may not have the best rates and programs.
Believing it's easier to work with your current lender is a common
misconception. In most cases, they'll require the same documentation as other
lenders and mortgage brokers. This is because most loans are sold on the secondary
market and have to be approved independently. Even if you've been good at making
payments to your existing lender, they'll still have to process the verifications all over
again.
- Not doing a break-even analysis.
Determine
the total transaction costs and how much you'll save each month by lowering your monthly
mortgage payment. Divide the transaction costs by the monthly savings to determine
the number of months you'll have to stay in the property to recoup your refinancing costs.
For example, if the costs of refinancing total $2000, and you save
$50 per month, you break-even in 2000/50 = 40 months. In this case, you
should only refinance if you plan to stay in the home for at least 40 months.
Note: The above example is suited to comparing two similar loans when the intent is
to lower your monthly payment and recoup transaction costs relatively quickly. Other
refinancing transactions require different kinds of analyses which are beyond the scope of
this document. Other types of refinancing transactions include exchanging a fixed
rate for an ARM, or a 30 year mortgage for a 15 year mortgage.
- Not getting a written good-faith
estimate of closing costs.
Within
3 working days after receipt of your completed loan application, your mortgage company is
required to provide you with a written good-faith estimate of closing costs.
- Paying for a home appraisal when you
think the appraised value may be too low.
Have
the appraisal company conduct a desk-review appraisal (typically at no charge) and provide
you with a range of possible values. Your mortgage company can ask an appraiser to
do this for you.
Do not waste your money on a complete appraisal if you believe the
home is unreasonably priced.
- Using the county tax assessor's value as
the market value of your home.
Mortgage
companies do not use the county tax assessor's value to help determine if they'll
originate your loan. They, like real estate agents, usually use the sales comparison
approach (formerly known as the market data comparison approach).
- Signing documents without reading them.
Do
not sign documents in a hurry. As soon as possible, review the documents you'll be
signing at close of escrow--including a copy of all loan documents. This way, you
can review them and get your questions answered in a timely manner. Do not expect to
read all the documents during the closing. There is rarely enough time to do that.
- Not providing your mortgage company with
documents in a timely manner.
When
your mortgage company asks you for additional paperwork--get cracking! They're
trying to get you approved! If you don't quickly respond to your broker's requests,
you could end up paying higher rates should your rate lock expire.
- Not getting a rate lock in writing.
When
a mortgage company tells you they've locked your rate, get a written statement detailing
the interest rate, the length of the rate lock, and other particulars about the program.
- Drawing against your home equity credit
line before you refinance your first mortgage.
Many
lenders have "cash-out" seasoning requirements. If you draw against your
credit line for anything other than home improvements, they'll consider your first
mortgage refinance transaction a "cash-out" refinance. This creates
stricter lending requirements and can, in some cases, break your deal
- Getting a second mortgage before you
refinance your first mortgage.
Many
mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e., the sum of the first and
second loans) when you are refinancing only your first loan. If you plan on
refinancing your first loan, check with your mortgage company to see if having a second
loan will cause your refinance to be turned down.
Getting a home
equity credit line.
- Not checking to see if your credit line
has a pre-payment penalty clause.
If
you are getting a "NO FEE" credit line, chances are it has a pre-payment penalty
clause. This can be very important (and expensive) if you are planning to sell or
refinance your home in the next three to five years.
- Getting too large a credit line.
When
you get too large a credit line, you can be turned down for other loans. Some
lenders calculate your credit line payments based upon the available credit, even when
your credit line has a zero balance. Having a large credit line indicates a large
potential payment, which makes it difficult to qualify for loans.
- Not understanding the difference between
an equity loan and a credit line.
An
equity loan is closed--i.e., you get all your money up front, then make payments on that
fixed loan amount until the loan is paid. An equity credit line is open--i.e., you
can get an initial advance against the line, then reuse the line as often as you want
during the period the line is open. Most credit lines are accessed through a
checkbook or a credit card. Credit line payments are based upon the outstanding
balance.
Use an equity loan when you need all the money up front--e.g. home
improvements or debt consolidation.
Use a credit line if you have an ongoing need for money or need
the money for a future event--e.g., you need to pay for your child's college tuition in
three years.
- Not checking the lifecap on your equity
line.
Many
credit lines have lifecaps of 18%. Be prepared to make high interest payments if
rates move upwards.
- Getting a credit line from your local
bank without shopping around.
Many
consumers get their credit line from the bank with which they have their checking account.
Shop around before deciding to use your bank.
- Not getting a good-faith estimate of
closing costs.
Within
three working days after receipt of your completed loan application, your mortgage company
is required to provide you with a written good-faith estimate of closing costs.
- Assuming that the interest on your home
credit line/loan is tax deductible.
In
some instances, the interest on your home credit line is NOT tax deductible. It is beyond
the scope of this document to provide tax advice or quote from the IRS code. Contact
an accountant or CPA to determine your particular situation.
- Assuming a home equity line is always
cheaper than a car loan or a credit card.
A
credit card at 6.9% can be cheaper than a credit line at 12%, even after the tax
deduction. To compare rates, compare the effective rate of your credit line with the
rate on a credit card or auto loan.
Effective rate = rate * (1 - tax_bracket)
Example: If the rate of the home equity credit line is 12%
and your tax bracket is 30%, your effective
rateis12% * (1 - 0.3) = 12% * 0.7 = 8.4%
If your credit card is higher than 8.4%, the credit line is
cheaper.
Besides the interest rate, you may also want to compare monthly
payments and other terms of the loan.
- Getting a home equity credit line if you
plan to refinance your first mortgage in the near future.
Many
mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e., the first loan plus the equity
line/loan) even though they are refinancing only the first mortgage. If you plan on
refinancing your first loan, check with your mortgage company to determine if getting a
second line/loan will cause your refinance to be turned down.
Getting
a home equity credit line to pay off your credit cards if your spending is out of control!
When
you pay off your credit cards with your credit line, don't put your home on the line by
charging large amounts on your credit cards again! If you can't manage the plastic,
get rid of it!
|| refinancing
your home || home equity loans || application || home page ||
mortgage mistakes information houston
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